Friday, April 30, 2010

Asia and stuff

I went to Turkey.

Actual update soon.

Monday, April 26, 2010

26 Days

How do you wake someone up from inside a dream?

Monday, April 19, 2010

Europe vs. the Volcano

I spent the past weekend in Amsterdam. Due to a certain minor volcanic eruption, I could have been spending a lot longer in Amsterdam. I probably should've stayed considering how unproductive I've been since returning to Prague but hey, whatever.

I paid $39 for a train ticket to Amsterdam so I braced myself for a 16-hour ride of joy and comfort. Some lessons were learned:

1. Never get onto a long-haul train thinking there will be a food cart just because the Hogwarts Express has one.
2. Don't assume that just because your compartment is empty for five and a half hours that it'll stay empty once you hit Berlin.
3. Don't ever, ever, ever get onto a train without food.

Okay. So. Sixteen hours and one frozen neck later, I arrive in Amsterdam. It's GORGEOUS and sunny and the best weather I've seen all semester. As a city Amsterdam reminds me of Copenhagen, only not shitty, pretentious, or full of douchebags. But anyway.

After settling in and blowing off a CNN report on a volcanic eruption in Iceland, I attempted to find my way to the Central Station to meet up for a free walking tour of the city. Ended up bonding with Lia, a girl from Canada traveling after her semester abroad. I wound up hanging out with her for the rest of the day, alternately dragging each other in bookstores and coffee shops and just kind of wandering. We wound up in the red light district at night and I can safely say that I've never felt that uncomfortable in my life; I don't care if the women working there are cool with it, I've just never felt so awkward before.

Day two was a bit more productive. Started figuring out that my flight from Brussels probably wasn't going to happen so I booked a $160 train ticket back across the continent to Prague. I really wanted to give up my $20, one-hour flight from Belgium, I can assure you. At one point there was a three-hour-long wait to talk to the international ticketing people in the station; the police were guarding the entrance and weren't letting anyone else in. Cool, volcano.

I started the morning at the Anne Frank House, and it was probably my favorite part of Amsterdam. It's one thing to read the diary and then it's another to actually walk the stairs, see the bookcase, be in their rooms-- it was really affecting and emotional. Normally historical sites don't really do it for me (case in point: Auschwitz) but there was something about being in the annex that got to me.

Visited the Dutch Resistance Museum and then kind of bummed around Rembrandtsplein before going to the Jewish History Museum and then to see Chloe (by the way? SUCKED). The Jewish History Museum had a painting by Marc Chagall, one of my favorite painters ever, and I didn't expect to just kind of stumble upon it so it was a really, really nice surprise.

Went to the Van Gogh Museum at night for their extended hours; they had a DJ and a bartender and it was a grand ol' party for everyone there except for the humorless Japanese tourists. The museum was really cool but none of my favorite paintings were there so I found it a little hard to get excited about "Sunflowers". Met up with Kim and two other Praguers afterward, booked the train ticket home.

I was supposed to go to The Hague on Saturday and continue on to Brussels but plans change, volcanoes erupt, the usual. Wound up going to the Rijksmuseum and then kind of bumming around. I bought a tourist card so I had a free canal cruise that I promptly fell asleep on because I hadn't had time to get coffee so COOL. I was pretty disappointing to not be going to The Hague because I just wanted to see the International Court of Justice and "Girl With A Pearl Earring" but I suppose both will always be around. Played with three different dogs in the English-language bookstore! I love Amsterdam and could definitely see myself living there in the future because God knows my path does not involve any more South Florida than is absolutely necessary.

The train ride home mildly blew. The compartment was completely packed but at least I slept, I think, for most of the ride. A ton of people are still stuck in various places around the continent so I'm just really happy to be home. I probably should have done the irresponsible thing by staying in Amsterdam but whatever.

So, fun things in Prague:

1. Everyone in my study abroad program got a notice from the Czech foreign police saying that our American health insurance was no longer good and if we didn't buy Czech-certified insurance within five days they'd start the deportation process. We all got the insurance but it's been a bit of a hilarious mess.
2. The volcano erupted and now our flight to Istanbul on Thursday is in doubt. THANKS, Eyjafjallajökull.
3. Both beds in my room have bedbugs. I slept on the floor of another room with my snuggie and a towel-as-pillow. NOTHING IS REAL.
4. I need to start the visa extension process because I desperately want to say this summer. C'est la vie.

Song of the weekend:

Friday, April 16, 2010

Chaos Theory

A volcano erupts in Iceland and I get stuck in Amsterdam.

Worse things have happened.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Austria: Shots were ripped

This past weekend was the long-awaited Classroom Europe trip to Salzburg and Vienna. First stop after our trek through the surprisingly pretty southern Bohemian region was Český Krumlov, a very tiny town that no one knew why we were stopping in until we got there. IT'S BEAUTIFUL and medieval with a castle and little cobblestone, twisting streets and I really can't stress enough how happy I was that we stopped there. We ate at a fairly legitimate vegetarian restaurant right on the river so despite the hypothermia that ensued we had a fairly solid evening.

Next stop (after three hours of driving) was Salzburg. Austria has the prettiest countryside I've ever seen (ride to Neuschwanstein excluded because no place will ever top that). It's hilly and green and there are little rivers running through it and random castles just stuck on the sides of mountains and it's incredible. Salzburg was really, really beautiful; it's completely surrounded by mountains and of course The Sound of Music was filmed in the area so there were plenty of sites to dork out over.

The biggest dork moment came from visiting Mozart's former home. Amadeus is one of my favorite plays and movies and I just love his music, so seeing the room he was born in and then things like his violin and wallet and even a lock of his hair was just incredible, and it really humanized him, I think.

Ambassador Holub led us up the hill to the fortress overlooking the entire city. I hate to say it but I'm completely out of shape and I can't keep doing these uphill climbs. It's a little sad how winded I keep getting every time I have to do one of these walks. Pathetic.

ANYWAY. Four hours and one viewing of Amadeus later, we're in Vienna. It's pretty dark and we don't see very much going into the city center, but it's clean and that's lovely. Ambassador Holub, the fountain of all knowledge, leads us on a little tour to the very center and then leaves us to our own devices. Overpriced alcohol is consumed and Amanda and I wander home.

Saturday is the day of Jiří leading us around Vienna. We ask him how many times he's been to Vienna: "twenty years, a hundred times maybe." How many languages does he speak? He won't even tell us, but he teaches in five. That he knows my name is an a huge point of pride; that he remembers my interests and calls me aside to tell me about something that might interest me is an honor above all else.

At the OSCE--
Ambassador Holub: You should get a picture with the flags. I take it.
Me: Oh no, it's okay.
Ambassador Holub: No. You go, ja?
Me: Sure.

That actually happened.

Anyway. We saw the Museum of Fine Arts, and while I wasn't a huge fan of the paintings exhibited there, the Egyptian and Greco-Roman collections were incredible, and it's worth a visit if only for the building itself because it is GORGEOUS. Went to Cafe Central, which, according to Wikipedia, is kind of a big deal: "Key regulars included: Peter Altenberg, Theodor Herzl, Alfred Adler, Egon Friedell, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Anton Kuh, Adolf Loos, Leo Perutz, Alfred Polgar and Leon Trotsky. In January 1913 alone, Josip Broz Tito, Sigmund Freud, Adolf Hitler, Vladimir Lenin, and Leon Trotsky (the latter two being regulars) were patrons of the establishment." So, you know, I'm glad I could keep the tradition alive.

Went to Hundertwasser afterward and got caught up in the kitsch, and then a small group of us went to Grinzing, a vineyard within the city limits. Wine was consumed and that's all I have to say on the matter. Ambassador Holub bought us cheese. Every time I think he can't get any more adorable, he just destroys that notion. Afterward was an AMAZING dinner at my new favorite restaurant, Vapiano (Samantha, if you're reading this, THANK YOU). Jitka, the ECES director, bought us wine. Jitka also threw back shots like a pro this weekend.

Sunday wasn't particularly eventful save for the trip to Schönbrunn Palace, which might be my favorite now. It's really, really, really pretty and not as oppressive or overwhelming as Versailles, and it's definitely prettier than Kronborg.

I think I might like Salzburg more than Vienna, but Vienna's still really beautiful. Berlin might be my favorite city thus far for inexplicable reason, and I think if nothing else materializes for this summer (and by nothing else, I mean the BBC calling and begging me to come work for the news bureau) I might stay in Prague and take classes. Who would have thought? Parents (father, really), if you're reading this, let's talk about money soon.

Oh, and apparently I'll be deported in five days if I don't get Czech-certified health insurance.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Obamania

So Presidents Obama and Medvedev are gracing Prague with their presence to sign a treaty today, and security has increased a thousand-fold. Can't move anywhere between my tram stop and basically the river, but it's cool. In playing motorcade bingo, I've now seen the Czech president's and Russian president's motorcades, and was almost mowed down by the latter.

While I'm sad that I can't stalk my commander in chief, I'm really not that bummed because he's not doing any public appearances while here... and honestly, I'll never get closer to the man than I was when this picture was taken:

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Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Epiphany

Realizing you love the city you live in is one of the greatest feelings in the world.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Money, Money, Money

I know that most people I know, my family especially, think that I have no concept of money. It's not true at all. Yes, I have a bit of a shopping problem but I know that and try to temper the issue. Urban Outfitters is a weakness, and I come home from trips with far too many souvenirs to count. I accept the shitty exchange rate between the British pound and the Euro with a shrug because, hey, what can you do?

I hit my breaking point in Denmark. There's no reason on Earth that the dollar should be so terrible against another currency, or that prices should be so high. My favorites from my 2.5 days in Copenhagen:

$20 for a 24-hour transportation pass
$8 for a coffee
$19 for a movie ticket
$20 for a book
$14 for falafel/soda
$4 for a water
$40 for dinner that wasn't McDonald's
$4 for a 7-11 slurpee (justifiable)
$65-80 for an emergency pair of jeans at Urban Outfitters

I've never had such a miserable time in a beautiful city, but because of this, I have no desire to ever return to Denmark. I couldn't even make it to Norway because of this. The Starbucks barista said that either her location or the Moscow one was the most expensive in the world. Every cashier who empathized with me only said "if you think this is bad, don't go to Norway." I was supposed to head to Oslo last night. COOL.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

What fresh hell is this? Denmark.

I’m going to be as blunt as humanly possible. Copenhagen is a beautiful, beautiful city; Denmark is an impossibly gorgeous country. But I swear to fucking God, I’ve never been so excited to leave a fucking place as I am to leave Denmark. This is the first city I’ve been to that I’ve given no thought to regarding moving here in the future.

It’s not because everyone is blond and I think Urban Outfitters got a government contract to dress the entire country and thus this is the most hipster-tastic place I’ve ever seen. It’s not because I’m traveling by myself, which is incredibly liberating and actually quite nice. It’s because I’ve never, ever been to such an expensive place in my life. I’m weeping for the Euro. I’m dying for the British pound. I CANNOT AFFORD TO BREATHE HERE. This is why, after much deliberation and crying in the handbag department of the Danish Harrod’s, I’m cutting short this Scandinavian adventure. I’m NOT going to Oslo tonight. I’m spending one more night in this Godforsaken city and then going back to where I can afford shit. $7 for a coffee is not okay. $25 for a one-day transportation pass is not okay. I won’t even provide figures for the bookstore and for Urban Outfitters because those will shock and astound even the most hardened of travelers. This is my punishment for something, somewhere that I did. I paid $4 for a bottle of soda before. $6 for the breakfast meal at McDonald’s. God forbid I want a veggie burger at Burger King because that will cost me far, far too much.

So yeah, no Norway tonight. I’m a little disappointed but between not feeling well and being traumatized by Scandinavia, I’m spending one more night, probably sleeping or drinking my glass of straight Cointreau (it’s that kind of day), I can’t go on. I said to the cashier at the bookstore that I had never seen such an expensive country before. She just laughed and said “don’t go to Norway.” WELL, FUCK. I WAS GOING TO NORWAY. But I’ve decimated my finances and honestly, simply eating for two days in Oslo at their lower-end establishments will put me in the red for months to come. Nothing will be open anyway. Fuck.

Anyway, Copenhagen is gorgeous and right on the water (so therefore FREEZING) and I went on two day trips to Hamlet’s castle at Helsingor and then to the Viking Ship Museum at Roskilde so I got out of here and then I walked everywhere else but fuck, I can’t wait to be back in Prague. Copenhagen was actually my back-up city for study abroad and I can’t imagine living here – I’d be bored to death and broke on day two.

I walked around on Thursday with my Portuguese roommate; I saw the Latin Quarter and Stroget, the main shopping area (oh, the entire city was closed Thursday and Friday as kind of a practice for Easter), and I went to Christianshavn and saw what should have been the hippie commune but I guess they take off the workdays before Easter too, so it was essentially me, the hipsters, and the two 7-11 stores on every block. It rained. I froze. I saw “The Ghostwriter” for $17 and loved it. Tivoli is closed for the season. I hate Copenhagen.

Friday: I went to Helsingor and saw Kronborg Castle, which was cool, and came back. Went to the Danish Resistance Museum (very cool), walked to where the Little Mermaid statue should have been but, oh wait, it’s in Shanghai for the World Expo, went to Amalienborg, saw where Hans Christian Andersen lived, went to the Jewish Museum, walked by the Royal Library, read for two hours in a coffee shop after spending $5 for espresso, and went to see “Green Zone” for, oh wait, $19. I still hate Copenhagen.

Today: I checked out early, decided to go to Roskilde (20 minutes outside Copenhagen) to see the Viking Ship Museum, was impressed by the ships, and oh hey, Roskilde is a suburban backwater so the bus to the train station came once every hour and I had just missed it. I walked back and forth between the two bus stops hoping that one would come later in the hour, but no, I was stuck until 12:11 at the earliest. This was 11:15. I was stuck in some horrible Nordic nightmare that I couldn’t escape. Finally made it back to Copenhagen and nearly wept when I saw someone with an Urban Outfitters bag. Spent $20 on a new book because I killed all my reading material. Nearly vomited when I saw how Urban Outfitters marked up their prices. Ate fantastic falafel. Proceeded to call my mom, wept over my migraine and the fact that I had 70 hours left of this little mini-break, and decided to cut it short because if I can’t afford Copenhagen, there was no fucking way on earth that I’d emerge with a credit limit in Oslo. This made me miss Malmo extensively because while the Swedish kronor was terrible against the dollar, it wasn’t as bad as Denmark. I actually really enjoyed Malmo – sure, I was bored after 20 minutes of walking and the highlight of my time there was my trip to H&M but it was beautiful and quaint and Sweden is way more likable than Denmark for whatever reason.

Anyway. Plans have changed and I frankly can’t handle another two days of traveling between my actual physical state (unending migraine that the Cointreau probably isn’t helping) and my financial trauma, so it’s Copenhagen for the night and back to Prague tomorrow. I might hug someone with a mullet just for comfort’s sake. It’s been real, Denmark, but I’ll see you in hell.