Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Austria: Shots were ripped

This past weekend was the long-awaited Classroom Europe trip to Salzburg and Vienna. First stop after our trek through the surprisingly pretty southern Bohemian region was Český Krumlov, a very tiny town that no one knew why we were stopping in until we got there. IT'S BEAUTIFUL and medieval with a castle and little cobblestone, twisting streets and I really can't stress enough how happy I was that we stopped there. We ate at a fairly legitimate vegetarian restaurant right on the river so despite the hypothermia that ensued we had a fairly solid evening.

Next stop (after three hours of driving) was Salzburg. Austria has the prettiest countryside I've ever seen (ride to Neuschwanstein excluded because no place will ever top that). It's hilly and green and there are little rivers running through it and random castles just stuck on the sides of mountains and it's incredible. Salzburg was really, really beautiful; it's completely surrounded by mountains and of course The Sound of Music was filmed in the area so there were plenty of sites to dork out over.

The biggest dork moment came from visiting Mozart's former home. Amadeus is one of my favorite plays and movies and I just love his music, so seeing the room he was born in and then things like his violin and wallet and even a lock of his hair was just incredible, and it really humanized him, I think.

Ambassador Holub led us up the hill to the fortress overlooking the entire city. I hate to say it but I'm completely out of shape and I can't keep doing these uphill climbs. It's a little sad how winded I keep getting every time I have to do one of these walks. Pathetic.

ANYWAY. Four hours and one viewing of Amadeus later, we're in Vienna. It's pretty dark and we don't see very much going into the city center, but it's clean and that's lovely. Ambassador Holub, the fountain of all knowledge, leads us on a little tour to the very center and then leaves us to our own devices. Overpriced alcohol is consumed and Amanda and I wander home.

Saturday is the day of Jiří leading us around Vienna. We ask him how many times he's been to Vienna: "twenty years, a hundred times maybe." How many languages does he speak? He won't even tell us, but he teaches in five. That he knows my name is an a huge point of pride; that he remembers my interests and calls me aside to tell me about something that might interest me is an honor above all else.

At the OSCE--
Ambassador Holub: You should get a picture with the flags. I take it.
Me: Oh no, it's okay.
Ambassador Holub: No. You go, ja?
Me: Sure.

That actually happened.

Anyway. We saw the Museum of Fine Arts, and while I wasn't a huge fan of the paintings exhibited there, the Egyptian and Greco-Roman collections were incredible, and it's worth a visit if only for the building itself because it is GORGEOUS. Went to Cafe Central, which, according to Wikipedia, is kind of a big deal: "Key regulars included: Peter Altenberg, Theodor Herzl, Alfred Adler, Egon Friedell, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Anton Kuh, Adolf Loos, Leo Perutz, Alfred Polgar and Leon Trotsky. In January 1913 alone, Josip Broz Tito, Sigmund Freud, Adolf Hitler, Vladimir Lenin, and Leon Trotsky (the latter two being regulars) were patrons of the establishment." So, you know, I'm glad I could keep the tradition alive.

Went to Hundertwasser afterward and got caught up in the kitsch, and then a small group of us went to Grinzing, a vineyard within the city limits. Wine was consumed and that's all I have to say on the matter. Ambassador Holub bought us cheese. Every time I think he can't get any more adorable, he just destroys that notion. Afterward was an AMAZING dinner at my new favorite restaurant, Vapiano (Samantha, if you're reading this, THANK YOU). Jitka, the ECES director, bought us wine. Jitka also threw back shots like a pro this weekend.

Sunday wasn't particularly eventful save for the trip to Schönbrunn Palace, which might be my favorite now. It's really, really, really pretty and not as oppressive or overwhelming as Versailles, and it's definitely prettier than Kronborg.

I think I might like Salzburg more than Vienna, but Vienna's still really beautiful. Berlin might be my favorite city thus far for inexplicable reason, and I think if nothing else materializes for this summer (and by nothing else, I mean the BBC calling and begging me to come work for the news bureau) I might stay in Prague and take classes. Who would have thought? Parents (father, really), if you're reading this, let's talk about money soon.

Oh, and apparently I'll be deported in five days if I don't get Czech-certified health insurance.

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