Everything I said about measuring my time in a place and not knowing how to say goodbye... It's crap, total and complete crap, because to quote from No Country for Old Men, you can't stop what's coming. Sooner or later, those last 17 hours in Prague were going to pass and I'd be in line to check in with my 50 kg of luggage and 12 hours later I'd be in the States dismayed by the horrifically ugly people and the ugly accents and the ugly lack of culture. All good things come to an end, I guess. I couldn't stay in Prague forever. Does distance make the heart grow fonder? I feel like I left a bit of myself over in the Czech Republic. I feel like such a mess because everybody's study abroad experience has to come to an end because then it wouldn't be special. I don't know why I'm taking it worse than others. Am I? I have no idea.
So how do I measure six months? In friendships, in classes, in traveling, in new experiences and new places and new lessons, new books and new crises. Prague may frustrate me to death but I love it with every fiber of my being, and I'll miss it just as much. Na shledanou, Prague. It's been surreal.
Song of the century:
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Friday, July 23, 2010
Survivor: Prague
So I have around 17 hours left in Prague, and despite this summer pretty much sucking, I'm really profoundly sad about leaving this city. It's been my home for six months and even though I currently associate it with stress and exhaustion and drama, it's my home. For better or for worse, I know this city better than I know Miami, Coral Springs, or Coral Gables... maybe even New York at this point. The thing is, unlike when I left in May, I have no idea when I'll be back. Maybe next year if I'm lucky? Who knows. I'm walking around and trying to take it all in, but who knows if it'll stick. I've been on the verge of tears all day and even the smallest normalcy makes me emotional. It's also rainy and brutally hot, but that's Prague for you.
I did well on my two finals and my two term papers, but I've been busting my ass all week trying to do my 20-page paper on the German annexations of 1938. That's meant a ton of nights in the Globe downing coffee and contemplating offing myself. I haven't had a chance to properly enjoy this city, well, ever. Since I leave tomorrow, I had to get my affairs in order today... which means I'm not allowed to have fun since final Czech purchases must be made and belongings packed and rooms cleaned and packages mailed.
It's not like I'd know how to say goodbye to Prague anyway. To steal from Rent, how do you measure your time in a city? In bars, in cafes, in restaurants or tourist attractions? I'm so sick of Old Town Square that I could puke, and Wenceslas never really did it for me. I'll miss the familiarity, the excitement, the foreignness, and the novelty of it all. I'll miss the classes and the professors - the best I've ever had. I won't miss the stress, but I'm proud of what I've written and accomplished here. I might even go as far as saying that I've learned a bit about myself too.
So Amanda and I are the last ones here from Spring 2010, Erasmus and American groups included, and I feel like we've won a cracked-out version of Survivor: Prague. Do I win a million dollars... or at least a return ticket?
I did well on my two finals and my two term papers, but I've been busting my ass all week trying to do my 20-page paper on the German annexations of 1938. That's meant a ton of nights in the Globe downing coffee and contemplating offing myself. I haven't had a chance to properly enjoy this city, well, ever. Since I leave tomorrow, I had to get my affairs in order today... which means I'm not allowed to have fun since final Czech purchases must be made and belongings packed and rooms cleaned and packages mailed.
It's not like I'd know how to say goodbye to Prague anyway. To steal from Rent, how do you measure your time in a city? In bars, in cafes, in restaurants or tourist attractions? I'm so sick of Old Town Square that I could puke, and Wenceslas never really did it for me. I'll miss the familiarity, the excitement, the foreignness, and the novelty of it all. I'll miss the classes and the professors - the best I've ever had. I won't miss the stress, but I'm proud of what I've written and accomplished here. I might even go as far as saying that I've learned a bit about myself too.
So Amanda and I are the last ones here from Spring 2010, Erasmus and American groups included, and I feel like we've won a cracked-out version of Survivor: Prague. Do I win a million dollars... or at least a return ticket?
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Three weeks in...
I know I've been slacking with the blog but I've been a little (a lot?) stressed. Taking three classes over the course of four weeks may have been a pretty bad idea, but I'm now in the trenches and attempting to make it out. No one really needs a daily update on my life (I slept! I ate! I got sick! I drank!), so I'll just give you the highlights of my summer in Prague.
THE WORLD CUP
Be still, my sports-hating heart. I know everyone who reads this knows I can't stand athletics in any form, but for some reason, I fall head-over-heels in love with the World Cup every four years. Maybe it's the fact that soccer/football is the one sport I've ever played, or maybe it's the fact that it lets me embrace my inner nationalist, but I live for the World Cup. I have vivid memories of sneaking off to watch matches during camp in 2006 (as my wife Ori Levy reminded me, the vivid memories are of us almost getting fired because we preferred to watch David Beckham over actually dealing with our campers. Sweet memories). Now, six hours ahead, I've gotten pretty lucky in that I've been able to make it to 90% of the matches I care about.
Hyundai set up a Fan Park in the middle of Old Town Square, which, for better or for worse, means I always knew what was happening. It was nice to not have to schlep out to a bar or something to watch. Amanda and I caught some of the daytime games at Riegrovy Sady, a lovely beer garden out in Prague 3, but most of our time was spent in Old Town.
The Dutch invaded Prague and let me join their ranks.
So yeah, I cheered for England and then they got rightfully crushed, and I cheered for Germany and then they got unfairly beaten, and then I went all the way for Holland and they lost in overtime. Maybe my support is the kiss of death. Who knows. But anyway, the World Cup let me make a lot of new friends and we bonded over our shared hatred of Germany... Argentina... Spain... and Spain again. It's a lovely thing.
LUCERNA
Lucerna holds 80s/90s night every weekend. Amanda and I have made it a tradition of pregaming, attending, and running shit. Because we can.
DRESDEN
I'm not sure what mental state we were in, but last Saturday morning, over a pathetically large breakfast feast at McDonald's, Amanda and I decided that it was a brilliant idea to go to Germany for the day. Her sister was there and I just wanted to see the west because for better or for worse, Prague is still kind of behind the Iron Curtain. We were still kind of buzzed when we bought the tickets and boarded the train, and it took a 2.5-hour-long train ride, riding backwards with no air at all, to sober up. Still, though, very glad we went-- Dresden is a lovely city and seeing my beloved American Apparel was wonderful. We even caught bits and pieces of the Germany-Uruguay game, which is kind of a half-assed version of my dream of going to Berlin for the final game had they made it to the end. Dresden for the third-place game is a bit of a cop-out, I guess.
MARRIAGE
I got engaged to my Italian friend Fede at his going-away party. Our love will forever be cemented by our wedding dance to "Single Ladies." Well, he liked it, and he put a grimy string ring on it at a grimy club. Fede, love, because I know you read my blog from time to time-- CALL ME. I want to come to Venezia in a week or so for our honeymoon. I want to make it happen.
SCHOOL
I'm going to quote Lady Gaga on this one:
"She's a mess. Now the girl is stressed. She's a mess. She's a mess. She's a mess. She's a mess."
One week left! Will I go to Munich? Brussels? Venice? Or will I actually stay in this painfully hot city and work? Only time will tell...
THE WORLD CUP
Be still, my sports-hating heart. I know everyone who reads this knows I can't stand athletics in any form, but for some reason, I fall head-over-heels in love with the World Cup every four years. Maybe it's the fact that soccer/football is the one sport I've ever played, or maybe it's the fact that it lets me embrace my inner nationalist, but I live for the World Cup. I have vivid memories of sneaking off to watch matches during camp in 2006 (as my wife Ori Levy reminded me, the vivid memories are of us almost getting fired because we preferred to watch David Beckham over actually dealing with our campers. Sweet memories). Now, six hours ahead, I've gotten pretty lucky in that I've been able to make it to 90% of the matches I care about.
Hyundai set up a Fan Park in the middle of Old Town Square, which, for better or for worse, means I always knew what was happening. It was nice to not have to schlep out to a bar or something to watch. Amanda and I caught some of the daytime games at Riegrovy Sady, a lovely beer garden out in Prague 3, but most of our time was spent in Old Town.
The Dutch invaded Prague and let me join their ranks.
So yeah, I cheered for England and then they got rightfully crushed, and I cheered for Germany and then they got unfairly beaten, and then I went all the way for Holland and they lost in overtime. Maybe my support is the kiss of death. Who knows. But anyway, the World Cup let me make a lot of new friends and we bonded over our shared hatred of Germany... Argentina... Spain... and Spain again. It's a lovely thing.
LUCERNA
Lucerna holds 80s/90s night every weekend. Amanda and I have made it a tradition of pregaming, attending, and running shit. Because we can.
DRESDEN
I'm not sure what mental state we were in, but last Saturday morning, over a pathetically large breakfast feast at McDonald's, Amanda and I decided that it was a brilliant idea to go to Germany for the day. Her sister was there and I just wanted to see the west because for better or for worse, Prague is still kind of behind the Iron Curtain. We were still kind of buzzed when we bought the tickets and boarded the train, and it took a 2.5-hour-long train ride, riding backwards with no air at all, to sober up. Still, though, very glad we went-- Dresden is a lovely city and seeing my beloved American Apparel was wonderful. We even caught bits and pieces of the Germany-Uruguay game, which is kind of a half-assed version of my dream of going to Berlin for the final game had they made it to the end. Dresden for the third-place game is a bit of a cop-out, I guess.
MARRIAGE
I got engaged to my Italian friend Fede at his going-away party. Our love will forever be cemented by our wedding dance to "Single Ladies." Well, he liked it, and he put a grimy string ring on it at a grimy club. Fede, love, because I know you read my blog from time to time-- CALL ME. I want to come to Venezia in a week or so for our honeymoon. I want to make it happen.
SCHOOL
I'm going to quote Lady Gaga on this one:
"She's a mess. Now the girl is stressed. She's a mess. She's a mess. She's a mess. She's a mess."
One week left! Will I go to Munich? Brussels? Venice? Or will I actually stay in this painfully hot city and work? Only time will tell...
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Everything old is new again
Dobrý den, my little monsters! Your fearless blogger is back in the land of no air conditioning and no deodorant, and guess what: IT'S FANTASTIC. I really couldn't be happier to be here -- this time around, the city is just perfect. Maybe it's the fact that I escaped the clutches of the Kolej, but I'm so, so, so in love with Prague. The weather is perfect, the people are not quite as frustrating, and EVERYTHING (and I really mean EVERYTHING) is within walking distance from my BEAUTIFUL APARTMENT.
I think the apartment makes all the difference. I'm living with a Russian journalist who is hilarious and slightly enigmatic so Amanda and I have had a ton of fun studying Kirill's way of life. I live two minutes from the Charles Bridge, four minutes from school, and maybe ten from Wenceslas Square. Compare that to 20-30+ to get from the Kolej to school, and I think we can all agree that this is a MAJOR FREAKING UPGRADE. I could live without the parade of loud drunks outside my window every night, but I guess this is what I get for living in Old Town -- a small, insignificant price to pay.
I really can't believe that I was ever worried about come back here. Everything about Prague feels so natural and normal and just like home, but in a way, everything old is new again. I appreciate being here so much more now that I can contrast it to a post-spring Florida, whereas before I only had slightly idealized memories of America to think of when I got frustrated with Prague. Really, though. This place might just be perfect. It's sunny from about 5 am-10 pm and cloudless and hot but not debilitatingly so. I know my way around now (obviously) and have a vague sense of the language, and I just never, ever want to leave.
So, a rundown of this week's activities:
Saturday: Arrive an hour late from Atlanta. Attack Amanda and Fede at airport. Collect my shit from around Prague. See GOSSIP at SaSaZu!!!! Get locked out and thus have to scream Kirill's name outside the window at 12:30.
Sunday: GET CARDED FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER IN PRAGUE. Went to Riegrovy Sady, a really cool beer garden in Vinohrady, to watch England get crushed by Germany... Sadness ensues. Finally found Smirnoff Ice in Prague. Hung with the Erasmus kids, who I really regret not meeting earlier, and then Amanda, after having left my apartment way earlier, came back at 2 am for a sleepover because her dorm is creepy.
Monday: First day of class. Of course I can't get my ID because my system data is screwed up, but Gaelle is fierce as hell and I found a kindred spirit in the only other ECES student, Sam. Took one class of Czech and decided that 3 credits were not worth my sanity. Dropped it.
Tuesday: Art history. Insufferable. No Professor Holub for politics. Sadness. Beautiful bonding time with Kirill, another sleepover with Amanda.
Wednesday: Tour of Prague Castle with class. Insufferable. Mitteleuropa is blowing my mind, and PROFESSOR HOLUB RETURNED!!!!!!!! Hare Krishnas prevented me from napping so I was really fresh as a daisy for class. Only not. But it happens. Took a long walk around the city center with Kirill after class. All was výborně.
Thursday: Oh God, some shit. Can't be bothered. Professor Holub took us to Anagram, I dorked out and bought a book about WWI, and I drank wine. Výborně.
Friday: Day was characterized by two major events: Žluté lázně and Lucerna, the first being the epic beach along the Vltava River and the second being the home of 80s-90s night. Žluté lázně is a huge riverside complex with restaurants and areas for sports and a TIKI BAR where I had to most wonderful Sex on the Beach at 11 am and I almost thought I was in the tropics save for the millions of Slavs surrounding me. Turns out that it was a top-optional beach, a tradition in which your fearless blogger may or may not have partaken. That's for me (and Amanda) to know and for you to ponder.
Lucerna was epic. That's all I have to say. Returning home at 7 a.m. is a new record for me.
Saturday: Holy hangover, Batman. We drag ourselves across the Charles Bridge to Bohemia Bagel where I contemplate dying. We then run back to Riegrovy Sady to watch Germany CRUSH Argentina (take that, Maradona!) and we then meet up with Fede at Old Town to watch Spain beat Portugal. I don't care how Euro-centric it is, I want Holland or Germany to take it all come Sunday. Too bad that the Czechs are still hurting from WW2 and therefore you can't find a single Germany jersey in this city.
Sunday: Radost for brunch with Sam and Amanda, schlep around Wenceslas Square and Palladium (oh H&M, I've missed you!). Camp out at Riegrovy Sady for a few hours, miss my beloved dog terribly. Potentially break my toe in the shower. Pass the fuck out.
Monday: Today. Hi. It's brutally hot here and there's no air conditioning so three hours of class is not fun despite the fact that Mitteleuropa is the most amazing class ever and I love the Habsburgs and Bismarck and it's all fantastic. Eat amazing, amazing, amazing food at this Lebanese-Indian restaurant near the Dancing House and then nearly die of heatstroke at a cafe. Heatwave, be gone. Now I'm here. At home. Writing. Contemplating buying an inflatable swimming pool and sticking it in the living room.
SONG OF THE WEEK:
I think the apartment makes all the difference. I'm living with a Russian journalist who is hilarious and slightly enigmatic so Amanda and I have had a ton of fun studying Kirill's way of life. I live two minutes from the Charles Bridge, four minutes from school, and maybe ten from Wenceslas Square. Compare that to 20-30+ to get from the Kolej to school, and I think we can all agree that this is a MAJOR FREAKING UPGRADE. I could live without the parade of loud drunks outside my window every night, but I guess this is what I get for living in Old Town -- a small, insignificant price to pay.
I really can't believe that I was ever worried about come back here. Everything about Prague feels so natural and normal and just like home, but in a way, everything old is new again. I appreciate being here so much more now that I can contrast it to a post-spring Florida, whereas before I only had slightly idealized memories of America to think of when I got frustrated with Prague. Really, though. This place might just be perfect. It's sunny from about 5 am-10 pm and cloudless and hot but not debilitatingly so. I know my way around now (obviously) and have a vague sense of the language, and I just never, ever want to leave.
So, a rundown of this week's activities:
Saturday: Arrive an hour late from Atlanta. Attack Amanda and Fede at airport. Collect my shit from around Prague. See GOSSIP at SaSaZu!!!! Get locked out and thus have to scream Kirill's name outside the window at 12:30.
Sunday: GET CARDED FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER IN PRAGUE. Went to Riegrovy Sady, a really cool beer garden in Vinohrady, to watch England get crushed by Germany... Sadness ensues. Finally found Smirnoff Ice in Prague. Hung with the Erasmus kids, who I really regret not meeting earlier, and then Amanda, after having left my apartment way earlier, came back at 2 am for a sleepover because her dorm is creepy.
Monday: First day of class. Of course I can't get my ID because my system data is screwed up, but Gaelle is fierce as hell and I found a kindred spirit in the only other ECES student, Sam. Took one class of Czech and decided that 3 credits were not worth my sanity. Dropped it.
Tuesday: Art history. Insufferable. No Professor Holub for politics. Sadness. Beautiful bonding time with Kirill, another sleepover with Amanda.
Wednesday: Tour of Prague Castle with class. Insufferable. Mitteleuropa is blowing my mind, and PROFESSOR HOLUB RETURNED!!!!!!!! Hare Krishnas prevented me from napping so I was really fresh as a daisy for class. Only not. But it happens. Took a long walk around the city center with Kirill after class. All was výborně.
Thursday: Oh God, some shit. Can't be bothered. Professor Holub took us to Anagram, I dorked out and bought a book about WWI, and I drank wine. Výborně.
Friday: Day was characterized by two major events: Žluté lázně and Lucerna, the first being the epic beach along the Vltava River and the second being the home of 80s-90s night. Žluté lázně is a huge riverside complex with restaurants and areas for sports and a TIKI BAR where I had to most wonderful Sex on the Beach at 11 am and I almost thought I was in the tropics save for the millions of Slavs surrounding me. Turns out that it was a top-optional beach, a tradition in which your fearless blogger may or may not have partaken. That's for me (and Amanda) to know and for you to ponder.
Lucerna was epic. That's all I have to say. Returning home at 7 a.m. is a new record for me.
Saturday: Holy hangover, Batman. We drag ourselves across the Charles Bridge to Bohemia Bagel where I contemplate dying. We then run back to Riegrovy Sady to watch Germany CRUSH Argentina (take that, Maradona!) and we then meet up with Fede at Old Town to watch Spain beat Portugal. I don't care how Euro-centric it is, I want Holland or Germany to take it all come Sunday. Too bad that the Czechs are still hurting from WW2 and therefore you can't find a single Germany jersey in this city.
Sunday: Radost for brunch with Sam and Amanda, schlep around Wenceslas Square and Palladium (oh H&M, I've missed you!). Camp out at Riegrovy Sady for a few hours, miss my beloved dog terribly. Potentially break my toe in the shower. Pass the fuck out.
Monday: Today. Hi. It's brutally hot here and there's no air conditioning so three hours of class is not fun despite the fact that Mitteleuropa is the most amazing class ever and I love the Habsburgs and Bismarck and it's all fantastic. Eat amazing, amazing, amazing food at this Lebanese-Indian restaurant near the Dancing House and then nearly die of heatstroke at a cafe. Heatwave, be gone. Now I'm here. At home. Writing. Contemplating buying an inflatable swimming pool and sticking it in the living room.
SONG OF THE WEEK:
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